Business booming at the Bodega

There’s a new gun in town in the “Battle of Burgers” in Socorro County.

The Bodega Burger Co. & Lounge has already established a presence since opening last month in what used to be Ranchers Steakhouse at 606 N. California St. in Socorro.

A collaboration between the city’s former tourism director, Deborah Dean, her son Brian and daughter-in-law Helen, the Bodega has come out guns ablazin’ with a robust weekly lineup in the lounge, a well attended wine-tasting event last weekend and, of course, a menu that features eight specialty burgers, as well as steaks, chicken, fish and soups.

“It’s been going well. We’ve already got 12 parties lined up for this week,” Deborah said after the lunch crowd had cleared out on Monday.

The Bodega — which means wine shop, or warehouse for wine — has taken over the lease for practically the entire building, which includes the lounge, restaurant, a private dining area, meeting room, and banquet hall.

“We’ve got the whole thing,” Deborah said, sounding a bit overwhelmed. “But I feel like we’ve been given a gift. Everything is first-rate.”

Jess Landers, who operated Ranchers for many years before closing the restaurant part of it two years ago, has made sure of that.

“Jess has been very supportive,” Deborah said. “He comes by almost every day for lunch and keeps an eye out for us.”

“So far, it’s worked out for both of us,” said Landers, who still maintains an office on the property from which he runs numerous other business ventures. “Hopefully, they’ll do well.”

Landers said he’s been approached by others interested in leasing the place, but none of them appeared as prepared to take on the endeavor as well as the Deans.

“They’re a good family. I’ve known the family since I’ve been here,” said Landers, who opened Ranchers in 1992. “The son, Brian, has a good reputation for being a chef. They’re hard workers and have experience in business.”

The most obvious change is a fresh coat of paint on the exterior. The interior has been painted, too, to give it a fresh look. But other changes are more subtle. They’ve kept some of the same decor, including old photographs from around the area from Suzanne Smith’s collection.

“We wanted to create an atmosphere that’s relaxing and therapeutic,” Helen said. “We also wanted a more intimate atmosphere, where you come with a date and not have to spend a lot of money.”

The Right Place

The Deans say they never anticipated this happening. It was just one of those times when the planets just seemed to align.

“It’s all based on having these guys moving back to Socorro,” said Deborah, who stepped down as tourism director in July. “Helen got a job at the hospital, Brain was ready to open his own restaurant and I ended up in the mix because I was looking for something to do. It just worked out that all of us could do this thing together.”

Brian Dean and Helen Major grew up in Socorro and married about two years ago, while Helen was in nursing school at Western New Mexico University. Brian, who followed his bride to Silver City, had his hands full managing a steakhouse and running a lounge.

“We had a plan to open a restaurant but didn’t know where it was going to happen,” Brian said. “This seemed like the right place.”

By kismet, it was for Helen.

“My grandfather owned just the lounge part of it back in the ’60s,” she said. “The bar was my old stomping grounds. It’s a special place for me.”

Helen sometimes tends the bar, which continued to draw business after the restaurant shut down.

Bodega’s lounge now hosts a college night with karaoke on Thursdays, a DJ Friday night and they’re working into bringing in live music each Saturday.

“It just makes sense, with so many good musicians in Socorro,” Deborah said.

Tonight (Saturday, Dec. 17), Travis Joel, an Albuquerque acoustic guitarist who plays folk, jazz and rock, takes the stage at 9 p.m.

Sunday features football on the lounge’s two flat screen TVs. The NFL Ticket and other sporting events throughout the week draw fans of every flavor.

There’s a wide selection of beer at the Bodega, including popular domestic name brands, but quite a few craft beers. The Bodega carries New Mexican beers from the Santa Fe Brewing Company and the Marble Brewery in Albuquerque.

Wine and Dine

But the Bodega features its wines.

Having grown up in Socorro, Helen said she feels people around here are “intimidated” by wine, and that was the purpose of last Saturday’s wine-tasting event. It was a way to introduce people to some of the many wines they serve, among them offerings from some of New Mexico’s St. Clair, Lescombes, Gruet and Black Mesa wineries. They also have California wines and some from Australia, Chile and France.

“We wanted to have a place where you didn’t have to be a wine expert to enjoy wine,” Brian said. “We have 30 different wines from sparkling to reds, to whites, to dessert wines. People are bound to find something to please their palette.”

“And we’re serving Sangria, which sort of ties in with the Bodega thing,” Deborah said.

In addition to the libations, the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. The menu lists a wide variety of choices, including appetizers, sandwiches, steaks, chicken, fish and deserts. But the burgers are their specialty.

“Everybody likes hamburgers,” Brian said when asked about how they came up with the concept for the Bodega Burger Co.

“What we’re doing is kind of putting a gourmet twist on hamburgers,” Deborah added. “We’re offering burgers that are unique — or you can create your own.”

Helen said a lot of experimentation went into creating the specialty burgers, joking that she got through college on a diet that included hamburgers several times a week while Brian perfected the items that would one day be featured on the menu.

There’s the signature Bodega Burger, with American cheese, smoked bacon and green chile, Swiss and Mushroom, BBQ Ranch, Turf and Surf, Southwest, Tortilla, something called a Green Egg and Ham Burger and a Low Carb Burger — all ranging in price from $8 to $12, including a side order.

“We use all New Mexico-raised beef,” Brian said, “and all of the fish is fresh.”

The Bodega offers two non-beef burgers: Smoked Salmon and Crispy Shrimp.

Steaks include a boneless rib eye and prime rib for $20 and filet mignon for $26.

Brian, who worked his way up the restaurant ranks, starting as a busboy at age 16, managed the now defunct Stage Door Grill in Socorro for two years.

“He was known for his soups when he was here last time,” Helen said. “Our soup of the day is a hit, for sure.”

While the staff has been busy with Christmas parties this month, they’re also getting ready for their next big event on New Year’s Eve. A dinner package, for $80 per couple, includes prime rib and crab legs, dance tickets, the music of Suave Cito, a champagne toast at midnight and transportation to and from the restaurant. For reservations, call 575-838-2087.

 

-- Email the author at tslast@dchieftain.com.