Wednesday, November 10, 2004

George MacLeod sailing coast of Spain

George MacLeod Aboard the Hannah Brown

Special To El Defensor Chieftain

Editor's Note: It's been more than a year since we've heard from George MacLeod, a Tech alumnus and former Socorro business owner who is sailing the world in his small boat, "Hanna Brown." MacLeod e-mails the El Defensor Chieftain occasionally to keep his friends updated on his travels.

It has been awhile since I last let you know what I am up to. Guri and I sailed, from our last winter's home, in the Basque County of Northern Spain, along the north coast to Galicia, where we spent seven weeks in a small pueblo, called Viveiro.

There we did a lot of bike riding in the mountains and established some great friendships with the people of the old small villages. We shared meals and many good times. It was hard to leave our new friends, as it was when we left Hondarribia, in Basque County.

A couple of our friends from Hondarribia came for a visit while we were in the Rias of southern Galicia. From Galicia, I sailed down the Atlantic coast of Portugal, stopping at many ports to experience the culture on foot and by bicycle.

In the fall, Guri's one year leave of absence was up and she had to return to Norway to welcome her daughter home from Australia (where she was studying) and go back to work. I have been to Norway once and she has returned to the Hannah Brown twice for short periods.

We are hoping it will work out that she gets to return permanently. We make a really good team to travel the world in a small boat, meet the people and cook the regional foods.

Probably the most important part, though, is our ability and desire to meet people. They come from all over the world. We share laughs and good times around a table of food and a bottle of wine.

Everyday there is a new place to explore, people to come in contact with, and a new outdoor food market (mercado). Octopus, squid, and anchovies have become some of our favorites. Then there is the abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables. Heaven!

Right now, I am on the River Guadiana, which forms the border between Spain and Portugal. The river is no longer used by commercial ships, but still can be navigated by pleasure craft. As you sail up the river, you can see the history and beauty that surrounds. It winds through hills, old castles, abundant fruit orchards (abandon), old farms and ranches, and a few small villages that still hang on with small populations. It is a magical place that we are lucky to experience.

At the end of the navigable portion of the river is the town of Mertola. Starting in 200 B.C., the Romans loaded iron ore here and shipped it to Rome and other places. I was able, with a good friend from Norway, to navigate that far last week. It was difficult, since there are many shallow places and rocks that hide just below the surface.

Our reward was an anchorage in the old Roman harbor under a Moorish Castile. Just in front of us were Roman towers that were used as a defense from invaders.

From our lunch table, I could look below our perch (150 feet) and see the Hannah Brown lying quietly at anchor. I think she thought she was a Roman vessel waiting for her next assignment. She visualizes herself in many ways. As we sailed up the river, the willows and bamboo hung out over the narrow passage. It was at this point that she named herself the African Queen.

The Hannah Brown knows and understands the meaning of simple pleasures. Those who have sailed aboard her depart with knowledge of these pleasures. I am lucky to have her as my friend, home, restaurant and vehicle.

I will be spending Thanksgiving on the East Coast with cousins and friends. In mid-December, I will be with Amy and Jason in Texas and then on to Socorro for Christmas. New Years I fly back to Southern Spain to make my winter home in Seville. Hope to see a lot of you who receive this letter.

Aboard the Hannah Brown in Ayamonte, Spain, where I am talking in the Schools for the next two days. Guri is flying in next Saturday and the Hannah Brown and I will show her the river and it's bicycle paths that she has grown to love.

-- George

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