A fortress of faith and memory in the heart of Socorro

Regina Barnett Just visiting
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When making my way around Socorro and the historical areas, one of the most compelling structures in town would be the San Miguel Catholic Church. Not only is the church itself massive and gorgeous, but the grounds that include the offices and gift shop also give you a feel of being back in old-timey Socorro with their adobe walls and Spanish Mission style architecture.

After taking my New Mexico history class last year at WNMU, I became fascinated with these old-style mission churches. So much of New Mexico’s history is connected to the missionaries that once dotted the New Mexico landscape during the time of New Mexico being exploration by the Spanish. These churches were not just a place of worship and were used by the missionaries to work towards converting the local Native American population; they were also built with thick walls and high windows to make them a type of fortress to guard against attacks from other Native American tribes.

The original church was on a different site and was known as “Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro”, which refers to Socorro, meaning “help”, with the original name meaning “Our Lady of Perpetual Help.” Following the Pueblo Revolt, the church was abandoned and later rebuilt on the site where it stands now. It is said that during an Apache raid, the Archangel Saint Michael wielded a sword against the mission's attackers, and thus the church was renamed “San Miguel.” This namesake is reiterated by the beautiful stained-glass window depicting the Archangel at the front of the church and multiple sculptures throughout.

I had stopped by San Miguel previously, and the church itself was closed. I was able to go this week during the jubilee and tour the space. I was immediately struck by the beautiful wooden staircase that goes up to the choir loft; it looks just like the one often mentioned in Santa Fe as a “floating” staircase. Winding with no extra support, the one in Santa Fe is said to have been built by a mysterious carpenter with wood that was not native to the area and without any nails. Right next to this staircase, there is a piece of glass covering the floor where you can see the corner of the foundation for the original church on this site; it is like peering into the past.

If the church itself isn’t enough for you, a back room lists parishioners who fought and perished during not only the World Wars, but there are even placards for the Civil War. This church is full of history.

In the gift shop, there is a small area museum which includes items that were found in the old adobe bricks when the building was remodeled because the adobe had become unstable. They found everything from corn cobs to fragments of animal horns cradled within these bricks, waiting to be discovered once they were removed. Pieces of the original altar, complete with paintings covering them, and charred bits from a fire that had once occurred, were also discovered during the renovations.

Walking through San Miguel, the air and atmosphere feel light, but you can also feel the weight of the centuries that linger even after you leave. There are so many stories here, much more than could be gone over in one column. These missions are sometimes what created towns, it was amazing to see one in person and hear stories from those who are the current caretakers and parishioners.

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