Where the mesa meets the vineyard: Black’s Smuggler Winery 

Set along I-25, in the shadow of the Ladron Mountains, the mesa meets rows of grapevines. The Black’s Smuggler Winery, a name that nods to the outlaw lore surrounding Ladron Peak, is a small winery producing thousands of gallons of New Mexico wine each year—most of it grown, fermented, and bottled close to home.

The tasting room, which is accessed via Old US Hwy 85, is open Thursday through Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. Tastings cost $7, with wines by the glass priced at $6. Bottles range from $18 to $25. The winery also hosts seasonal events, including large craft fairs in the spring and fall, and accommodates small private gatherings of up to 100 people.

For Valentine’s Day, the winery plans to host a wine and chocolate pairing event that will include four locally-made chocolate goodies paired with four wines, along with an explanation of each pairing. Tickets to the event can be reserved by calling the winery at 505-388-8117.

The winery, owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Tony and Mary Ann Black, began more than a decade ago after Tony retired from a career with CenturyLink and decided not to return to corporate life.

“We wanted to do something different,” he said. “Wine had been a hobby for years, and when we moved back to the area, we decided to make it official.”

The operation became licensed roughly 12 years ago, following nearly a decade of home winemaking. Today, the winery produces approximately 33,000 gallons annually, translating to about 1,000 to 1,900 cases of wine each year. Inside the production space are more than 30 barrels and tanks filled mostly with white wines, alongside reds aging for future releases.

While the winery maintains a one-acre vineyard on site and a three-acre vineyard across the river in Las Nutrias, those vineyards account for about 40 percent of production. The remaining grapes are sourced from other New Mexico growers, including vineyards in Deming, Tularosa, and elsewhere in the state.

“Except for our cranberry wine, everything is New Mexico-grown,” Tony said. “That one uses cranberry purée from Washington, but the base wine is still local.”

The winery produces roughly 17 to 18 varieties, ranging from dry reds and sweet wines to fruit wines, fortified selections, and a sparkling wine that is made off-site. While New Mexico consumers often favor sweeter wines, Tony’s personal preference leans toward bold, dry reds.

“I started making big dry reds, and those are still my go-to,” he said, naming Tempranillo, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet, and Saperavi among his favorites.

Saperavi, a grape originally from the country of Georgia, holds special significance. Cuttings were sourced through the University of California, Davis, grown in a nursery in Deming, and then transplanted at the winery. Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, and Tony felt its history aligned with New Mexico’s own long winemaking legacy.

“A lot of people don’t realize New Mexico was making wine about 200 years before California,” Tony said. “It felt like a good story to tell.”

The tasting room reflects that sense of place. Decorated with Southwestern flair and outlaw-themed accents, the space is intentionally described as “rusty and dusty,” offering a cozy, informal atmosphere. Wine bottles behind the bar display awards earned over the years. 

Distribution remains largely local. The winery self-distributes to select restaurants and shops in Socorro, Belen, Bosque Farms and Albuquerque, including a limited presence at Total Wine. Their wine is also sold at the Baca House in Socorro.

Beyond production, Tony points to the collaborative nature of New Mexico’s wine industry as one of its greatest strengths.

“There are only about 45 wineries in the state,” he said. “Everybody helps each other. If something breaks, someone lends equipment. It’s a really tight community.”

As the vineyard continues to mature and production evolves, the winery remains rooted in its original goal: crafting approachable wines that reflect New Mexico’s land, history and people—one bottle at a time.